Corks vs Screwcaps - The Debate Continues 
Let me start this article with an admission: Being a bit of a Kiwi wine fanatic, I had just assumed that screwcaps were a done deal. We all know the benefits - ease of use, consistency of flavour, no cork taint etc. However as I started to research this topic, it became apparent there are still a range of opinions across different winemakers in NZ. There is a lot of information and opinions out there - over 2 million results on Google alone. Luckily, you don't have to read them all as we've done it for you:
The screwcap (or ‘Stelvin’ enclosure as it is sometimes referred to) was initially developed in France in the late 1960’s and introduced commercially in 1971 in Switzerland. The enclosure was developed by the wine industry to combat the ongoing issue of ‘corked’ bottles or ‘cork taint’. This is caused by the appearance of TCA (officially known as 2,4,6-trichloroanisole) – a contaminant that can be present in the cork itself or sometimes in the oak barrels used in making the wine. Interestingly, humans are very sensitive to TCA – most of us can sense it at 10 parts per trillion. TCA may not always impart a detectable odour, but it will in all cases change the aromas and flavours of the wine. Kumeu River, one of the primary advocates of screwcaps in NZ, commented once that it was this minor contamination that was the biggest issue i.e. consumers just thought the wine was of poor quality, rather than it actually being tainted by TCA.
The arguments for screwcaps in terms of consistency are well-defined and well accepted by winemakers and consumers alike. What is more contentious (still) among winemakers is whether the wine itself is enhanced or limited by the enclosure. Michael Brajkovich of Kumeu River is a strong advocate for screwcaps across all their wines, including their top-level Chardonnays which require some years in the bottle to really hit their straps. Other wineries such as Te Mata and Trinity Hill take a 'horses for courses' approach - using screwcaps for their drink-young wines, and sticking with cork for the 'cellar' wines. Peter Cowley of Te Mata has written a particularly good article on his approach to wine enclosures which you can read here.
What is most interesting is just how quickly consumers in this part of the world have adjusted to screwcaps when compared with North America & Europe. Most people I know would not refuse a wine for it's enclosure, nor would they be more inclined to purchase a wine simply because it was enclosed with cork. However, this sentiment is not shared in the northern hemisphere, creating somewhat of a dilemma for Kiwi winemakers as they look to sell in these markets. The industry in NZ is pro-actively meeting the challenge with the formation of the International Screwcap Initiative.
One comment on our Facebook page summed up consumer sentiment quite simply - "Who cares, it is really how the wine tastes". We couldn't agree more. It will be interesting to see how this debate evolves over the next few years. This will inevitably be driven by further technical developments in cork and other alternative closures. As with all things wine, it is very much a waiting game with new experiments and innovations taking years to truly show their results.
Want to have your say on this topic? Please feel free to provide feedback on our Facebook post.
Some wines to try & compare different enclosures:
Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay (Screwcap), Escarpment Pinot Gris (Cork), Vavasour Pinot Gris (Screwcap), Te Mata Woodthorpe Syrah (Screwcap), Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah (Cork)